Crochet Blankets – from 10 years ago!

WARNING – THIS BLOG POST IS WORD HEAVY!

Way back in 2016 I held a workshop at the Cheshire Fibre Festival (I also co-organised the festival!) called Crochet Blankets; Stripes or Squares. I designed 2 blankets for the workshop both using the same stitch pattern, one was a stripe blanket the other a square blanket. They were called Sandlebridge Stripes and Sandlebridge Squares and you can find the patterns on Ravelry (Stripes and Squares) and on LoveCrafts.

Very recently someone made the most lovely comment on the Sandlebridge Squares pattern on Ravelry and it made me recall back to when I designed it. I offered her a copy of the workshop handout notes from 2016 and later that evening I thought ‘why not publish them on my blog?’. So this blog is a reproduction of those notes, although edited slightly to remove some of that workshop specific material.

It is very word heavy, but I’ve thrown in a few photos to break the monotony for you.

In the workshop I encouraged everyone to share their blanket making experiences and it was a lovely 2 hour workshop for me and, I hope, the attendees.

Sandlebridge Stripes

Here it begins:

Introduction

Crochet blankets are pretty, practical and very popular.  If you haven’t yet made one, you’re probably contemplating it.

Traditionally, granny square blankets used to be the most common type of handmade crochet blanket.  However, in the modern world crochet has moved the boundaries on from that tradition and now there is a wide choice of styles to choose from.  But which one is right for you?   It may not be the one you love to look at, because you may find it very tricky to make, or even boring!  But how do you know? 

Crochet blankets are a large investment in time and money, not to mention the space you need to store your project whilst making it.  So this workshop is aimed at showing you the things to consider when choosing your crochet blanket, to help ensure it does not end up hidden in a cupboard half-made, unloved and taking up precious space.

It covers yarn, ease of making and style.  The 3 main styles of blanket are stripes, a large crochet square and lots of smaller crochet squares.  There are other styles but the pros and cons of each style will fall into one of these 3 main categories, for example hexagonal motif blankets will prove similar to small squares blankets.

I’ve designed more than a dozen blankets and made more than double that, so I have significant experience.  And funnily enough, until recently, the vast majority of the blankets I made were made of squares!

I designed 2 blankets, Sandlebridge Stripes and Sandlebridge Square(s) patterns, which are used in the workshop to demonstrate the pros and cons of style, and I included the basic granny square pattern, the basic granny stripe pattern and the basic corner to corner pattern, but not in these notes for the blog.

Crochet Kit

You don’t need anything special to make blankets, just your usual crochet kit which should include hooks, scissors, tapestry needle, solid ruler and lockable stitch markers. But you will need a large project bag or tub, and have a good way of organising your yarn if you are using lots of colours.  And if you’re using stash a set of small scales will be handy for weighing your yarn and how much you are using as you go.

Size

Crochet blankets can be any size you like from a small baby blanket to a huge queen size bed blanket (and larger!).  Here are some typical sizes:

Baby car seat – 40 by 50cm

Baby  – 60 to 70cm square or rectangular

Lap blanket  – from 80cm square

Single bed  – from 1.1m to 1.3m wide by 1.7m to 2m long

Double bed – from 1.45m to 1.6m wide by 1.7m to 2m long

King size bed – from 1.6m to 1.8m wide by 1.9m to 2.2m long

Yarn

You could use absolutely any yarn, either in base quality (eg merino, silk, acrylic) or thickness (4 ply, dk, aran).  If you are following a pattern then you will be guided, but you may be making a blanket to your own design or even adapting a pattern.  However, the end result may not be right if you don’t select your yarn carefully.

If you consider base quality – what is the blanket to be used for?  

For example, a baby blanket may need to be in a strong yarn, able to withstand wear, plenty of washes and with colour that is fast – acrylic would be good, as would cotton. 

An heirloom blanket, which will be lovingly cared for, with a lovely pattern would benefit from a yarn with good stitch definition, a good quality merino 4 ply may suit. 

And do you want to make it quickly?  If so aran weight, chunky or super chunky would work well.  Just remember the finer the yarn the longer it will take to make.

A good all round yarn is one that washes well, makes up reasonable quickly and has good colourfastness.  And Stylecraft DK is one that is favoured by many – it is good quality and affordable.

Typical quantities of Stylecraft Special DK for blankets:

TypeSizeQuantity (100g balls)
Baby car seat40 x 50cm2
Baby70cm x 70cm3
Lap blanket1m square6
Small bed1.1m by 1.8m12
Double bed1.5m x 1.8m15
King size bed1.8m x 2m20

If you are using several colours, then divide the amount by the number of colours and add a good margin, say 20-25%.

Colour

Colour tends to be personal choice, and that choice is many and varied, but you don’t need to have lots of colour.  A single colour blanket can look stunning.  

There are lots of resources available in books and on the internet about colour theory, which will help you with colour choice.

If you have difficulty choosing then there are lots of colour packs available from yarn suppliers and plenty of designers to take inspiration from.

Style

Some people like stripes, some people like squares.  Which do you like and why?   Or do you have no preference?   Whatever it is, remember that any stitch pattern can be done in a square or in a stripe.   So if you find a stitch pattern you like and it is in stripes, you can adapt it to squares if you want to (and vice versa), it just takes a bit of experience.

Blanket styleProsCons
  Stripes  Rhythm of repetition is soothing and therapeutic.  
Colourwork is also very therapeutic.   Stripes look fantastic!  
For some this repetition can be  boring.   There can be lots of ends to sew   Sewing ends at both sides of the blanket, or in some cases mainly one side of the blanket can make it uneven.  
The edge can be difficult and messy to set up  
The larger it gets the less portable it is  
  Large square  Good rhythm, especially as it gets large. Good opportunity for colour therapy.   The edge takes care of itself  Lots of ends to sew, if using lots of colour  
The larger it gets the less portable it is.
  Small square  Portable (although join as you go squares may not be depending on your joining routine)  
Good opportunity for colour therapy.   The edge is easy to set up, and sometimes not necessary    
Not so good rhythm  
Joining  
Sewing ends  
Unless it’s join as you go, then best to block before joining.  
Sandlebridge Squares

Layout

Layout can be anything you like, and absolutely anything goes.  However, if you want variety in your crochet look for a layout that isn’t all the same – mix and match squares/motifs and stripes.   Some graph paper may help you.

A blanket design from 2015 where I used different sized squares to vary the layout

Ease of pattern

If asked what my choice of easy and quick blanket to make would be, then the answer is simple – in aran weight, a large granny square and in one colour!  This is because aran weight makes up quickly, I find granny squares easy and not as boring as stripes (I have a low boredom threshold) because there are 4 corners to stop and change rhythm, there are fewer ends to sew and the edge takes care of itself.    But this is my choice, I know that I like to make blankets quickly and I know where my boredom threshold lies J

When considering ease of pattern here are a few other things to think of:

The easiest sts to make are in spaces (such as a granny st which works most sts into a 1ch space) – so if you want a quick make or are an inexperienced crocheter, you would use these.  Even a stripey blanket with a repetitive pattern can be made easy with a pattern that works in spaces (such as a granny stripe).

Do you want to crochet quietly and enjoy a challenge?  Or do you want to crochet your blanket in front of the tv, on the train, in the car (as a passenger), at knitgroup? 

These will determine the complexity of the pattern you should try; a complex pattern will require concentration and may prove a challenge – but do something simple in front of the tv (you don’t want to frog often!).

Do you get bored easily?  You need more variety and complex patterns, maybe something that has lots of rows/rounds of pattern rather than the same row/round repeated.

Do you lack crochet confidence?  Aim for a mix of easy and slightly more complex, the easy parts will give you confidence and the slightly more complex parts will stretch you a little.

Remember:  always do a swatch to see whether you like the pattern!

The Edge

The more fancy the blanket pattern, the simpler the edge should be.   But a plain blanket can withstand a very fancy edge or a simple plain edge.

If you have a stripe blanket, try to avoid doing the first round of the edge in the same colour as the first and last row, to avoid the blanket stripes appearing unbalanced.    Also if you are using lots of colours in your blanket but want only a few for the edge, don’t choose them in exactly the same order, take, say, 3 colours from across the range, otherwise you may get a ‘multi-framed’ effect.

Dealing with the edge on stripes – normally pick up 2 sts at the end of tr rows and 1 st at the end of dc rows.  Also, to avoid holes at the side of the stripes, make sts into the row ends NOT around the posts of the row ends.

Joining

There are many ways of joining squares, and they warrant a whole workshop!    Whatever way you decide to join, it is best to trial it first to ensure you are comfortable with the process, you want to be able to join it at the end and if you don’t like the process the blanket may languish unfinished!

Tips and tricks

The ends – Sew your ends as you go because this will give the neatest finish.  With stripes you can even work over them as you start a new colour, but for a solid finish I recommend sewing them a little first before working over them.  If you don’t like sewing ends, change colour less frequently – i.e broader stripes or one colour squares.  Even numbers of rows of one colour will result in all ends at one side of the blanket – so choose odd numbers to even out the ends.

Standing stitches – If you are an experienced crocheter, you may wish to start rows/rounds with new yarn with a standing stitch rather than 3ch, 2ch etc.  This will give a better finish.  

Sewing the last stitch (on rounds or on the edge) – Similarly, you will achieve a better finish if you sew the last part of the last st on a colour change round rather than join the round with a slip stitch.    

Avoiding jogs (on rounds) – To avoid getting a jog (or twist) try starting your rounds in different places and thus also offsetting the location of the ends that you need to sew.

Hook changes – If you want to do a certain st on a row/round and it’s puckering or tightening – just change your hook size – larger to correct tightening and smaller to correct puckering.

Have scales handy – weighing your yarn to see how much a stripe or square uses will help you in identifying whether you have sufficient to finish or maybe just make that blanket a tad larger.

Pace yourself – crochet injuries are rare but too much crocheting can result in tired, arms, wrists, hands, shoulders and back.   But if you have a tight timescale in which to make the blanket, use maths to work out how much you should do each day, and work out whether you can manage that comfortably.

Join as you go squares – If doing small squares that are join as you go, they can be less portable.  But you could work each square up to the last round and join later – or do all rounds without joining and don’t fasten off, instead undo part of the last round and join in a joining session.

I hope you find these notes helpful and they encourage you to maybe be a bit more adventurous in choosing your next blanket project. If you want to see my crochet blanket designs you can find them here.

I also did a workshop on mandalas and those notes may well be published here soon! Until then…….

Happy crocheting xxx

Happy New 2026 Blog!

Happy New Year!  It’s been a long time since I last blogged.  I have had a very busy time in the last couple of years and I moved house recently, so my focus has been elsewhere. I don’t make resolutions normally but I’m making an exception – I resolve to blog regularly this year!

You may have noticed that I haven’t designed anything new for quite some time.  For the last few years I have slowed in my designing and tech editing work, eventually giving up the latter last April.  Since then I’ve thought a lot about where my designing should go.  I love the creative side but not all the behind the scenes work required to formally publish a paid-for pattern.  The New Year has made me focus and I have decided that I am not giving up designing just changing focus to share my creativity and hopefully inspire you.  I may publish the occasional new pattern but it is more likely to be free. 

My first share is a problem that I’ve seen escalate in recent years and it is ‘the stash problem’.

We live in a consumer society and all around us companies of all shapes and sizes are blasting marketing techniques at us to encourage us to buy their goods.  The yarn world is no different although probably not the worst culprit.   So it is not surprising that many yarn users have a stash of yarn that is far too big or, as some say, stash beyond life expectancy (StaBLE).  One of the ways to tackle a stash problem is by a declutter and I will blog about some declutter tips next time.  This blog I’ll share my thoughts and ideas on choosing ‘stash busting’ projects. Stash busting projects are the subject of many blogs these days.  It’s a reflection of the realisation that we do have a problem.   I’m not going to point you in the direction of specific projects share my ideas which may help you decide what sort of stash busting projects to take on. 

There are questions that I ask myself every time I take on ANY project but the major ones can be summarised in 3 groups.

Will I make it?   Am I being too ambitious with the planned project?  Do I have the time to make it?  And will I enjoy making it?  At first I found this difficult to answer but it’s a lot easier now as it made me aware of what I really want to make.

Is it practical ?   Will it be used by me or the person I am making it for?  Some years ago I spent a lot of time making presents and I exhausted the number of scarves, mitts, hats, cowls and shawls that people could have in their cupboards, even if they actually liked them.  Yes, let’s face it what we like may not be what other people like.   I’ve seen and heard of so many crafters being disappointed, or even reduced to tears, when someone doesn’t appear to like their gift which is sad as we all know how much thought and effort we put in, but it has helped me think very hard about why I am making something.    It gives me a buzz each time I see someone wearing a gift I gave them several years ago, so I get it right sometimes 😊, but I am so much more realistic now.  

Is it sustainable?  In a nutshell – how long  before it ends up in landfill?  This question forces me to consider carefully any manmade fibres in a project, which are good for blankets that will be loved and potentially used for many years or baby clothes that will be washed and then probably passed on but not necessarily good for fashion pieces which may be thrown out after a season or two.

So I ask myself these same questions about a stash busting project and these are some types of project I found ‘safe’ to take on.

Small projects   There are some great ideas out there for small projects perfect for using up bits of leftover yarn – but do the little items made get used?  Everyone is different so what I would like may not be what my friend likes.  So, for example, I would avoid pin cushions and cute little amigurumi toys but I would happily make washcloths (in cotton or linen), bunting/garlands, Christmas tree decorations or fingerless mitts.

Large projects I think it is difficult to make a garment sized project from leftover yarn but if there’s a lot of excess yarn of one type it could work.  And the same ply of yarn in lots of different colours could make beautiful and colourful scarves and shawls.  But in my experience the best large stash busting project is a blanket.  You can mix and match different plys and colours of yarn and be very creative, holding 2 or more yarns together and being as dramatic as you like in your colour scheme.

In case you need some inspiration on stashbusting blankets, here are some stash busting blankets I have made in the last 5 years.

My Lockdown Blanket which I made in 2020 and was a fabulous way to use up some of my well-loved stash.  The pattern I used was Nature’s Walk by CherryHeart but I used my own border.

My Ultimate Stash Blanket made in 2023.  I used a couple of variations of some squares I designed  (Octoghan and and a simple open square) and carefully recorded the yarn I used – over 5,000m of yarn!

My Granny Stasher made in 2024.  This was a real stash buster and you can tell from the colours that it’s mainly leftovers in this.   I used 2 granny squares, one normal and the other with a circle in the centre, and this enabled me to use up so many little scraps of yarn.

The last one was made a year ago and I called it Mindless but Magic because I used a kit I had which was for a more complicated blanket and I just wasn’t in the mood to make it so wanted something mindless! I took a simple 3 row granny stripe and added an Attic24 border. It isn’t quite full double bed size but works well and was a satisfying and quick make.

You may have spotted a couple of things from my stash busting blankets but if not I’ll point them out. My favourite colours are blues and greens and I prefer to use luxury 4ply yarns, although the last blanket was in Stylecraft Special DK.

I hope this has inspired you a little and will help you next time you want to select a project to bust your stash!

I would love to know how and why you choose stash busting projects. As always you can comment on here, on Facebook or on Ravelry.

Happy crocheting xxx

I’m still here!

I’m so sorry that I have been quiet for the last 10 months, I’m still here but I haven’t had much to say!

Like many people, I’ve had plenty of time for reflection in the last few years. I’ve analysed my design work and realised that, even though I love it, I had become a slave to it. I spent too many hours making items I designed, writing patterns, drawing charts, organising testers and tech editors, and then publishing, promoting and, the most time-consuming, running CALs. I decided the best thing I could do for me is to slow right down and that is exactly what I have done. I confess I like it!

So designs have been minimal and I haven’t even got round to publishing them yet. But I have spent time decluttering and organising. I’ve also used my making time to make things for me, in particular socks which have become one of my easy makes. These are mainly knitted but I have spent time trying to find a great crochet sock – my favourite so far is Riley and Saunders by Joanne Scrace, written for both DK and 4ply yarn in a wide range of sizes.

Over the years, I’ve built a lot of personal stash and, as you will know from previous posts, I have tried to reduce this and did a good job for a while but I need to be more rigorous. So I’ve sorted some stash to sell (this was a hard decision!) and started to advertise it (slowly). So far I’ve advertised only on a facebook group but I may spread further. I’ve also realised that my WIPs have got out of hand so they are having some well deserved love. I’ve pulled out a Cloud Line Wrap that I started last May using some luxury stash yarn and I’m halfway through.

I’m using 4ply yarn in 4 colours and a 4mm hook. I haven’t decided how much of a fringe I want so I’m leaving some lengthy ends. I will do 19 or 20 repeats of the 4 colours using up virtually all the yarn.

I’m keeping some of my precious stash for my own use. I have 6 skeins allocated for more socks and 9 skeins in blues and greens which I may turn into an easy and, hopefully, quick blanket. This may turn into a CAL so watch this space.

Something that will be a CAL is a bag. This will be in blues and greys and will be very similar to the Spring Lifter. This may well emerge later this month 🙂

So I’ve just committed myself to a CAL and there’ll be another blog post soon.

In the meantime, happy crocheting xxx

Round Again CAL – Part 6

Time has flown. It seems like yesterday when this CAL started yet here we are at the final stage. Part 6 is the border. This is one of my favourite borders, simple, relaxing and very effective.

The pattern here is written in UK crochet terms and these are the abbreviations used

st(s) stitch(es)

ch ch

dc double crochet

htr half treble

htr3tog half treble 3 sts together

ss slip stitch

ch-sp chain space

The first round of the border is best in the same colour as your joining round.  Thereafter, you can use your scrap yarns.  I used about 12g/48m for Round 1 and I found each Round from 2 to 9 took between 8g/32m and 10g/40m of yarn.  I finished with a final round in the same mid grey as the joining.

Round 1:  join yarn in any 3ch-sp in corner, 1ch (does not count as st), work sts in this round as follows:

(2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in each 3ch-sp,

1dc in each st,

2dc in each 2ch-sp,

htr3tog across the join (placing the first leg of the st in the space before the join, the second leg in the join and the third leg in the space after the join)

ss to 1st dc to join, break yarn and fasten off.

You will have an odd number of sts on each side of the blanket and a 1ch-sp in each corner.

Round 2:  join yarn in any 1ch-sp in corner, 1ch (does not count as st),

**(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in 1ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1 st, *1dc in next st, 1ch, miss 1 st; repeat from * until next 1ch-sp in corner then repeat from ** along each side, ss to 1st dc to join, break yarn and fasten off.

Round 3:  join yarn in any 1ch-sp in corner, 1ch (does not count as st),

*(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in 1ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 1ch) in each 1ch-sp along the side; repeat from * to end of round, ss to 1st dc to join, break yarn and fasten off.

Rounds 4 onwards: repeat Round 3 until your border is the width you want.

I worked the last round in the same mid grey as the joining round and then finished with the final round.

Final Round: *(ss, 1htr, ss, 1htr) in 1ch-sp in corner, (ss, 1htr) in each 1ch-sp to next corner; rep from * to end of round, break yarn and fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

Don’t forget there is a paid for pattern on Ravelry which is also being released in parts and has a US crochet terms available too. It also includes some charts of the joining and the start of the border.

This is my blanket, I would love to see photos of your blankets, please share them on Facebook and Ravelry.

Happy crocheting xxx

All patterns and photographs are copyright

Round Again CAL – Part 5

Have you made all your circles yet? Don’t worry if you haven’t, just go at a pace that is right for you. But if you have finished you can now start joining.

The pattern here is written in UK crochet terms and these are the abbreviations used

st(s) stitch(es)

ch ch

dc double crochet

tr treble

htr half treble

dtr double treble

ss slip stitch

ch-sp chain space

The motifs are joined as you go, with a final round in your joining colour.  I used a mid grey sock yarn.

Make all the circle motifs first, then lay them out in your blanket shape, moving them around until you have a colour scheme you like.  Then photograph them to remind you of your layout.  You may also wish to thread them onto a knitting needle in the reverse order you will join them.  Either one long circular needle or one needle per row of blanket.

The final round is the same for all motifs and you will end with 24 2ch-sps and 4 3ch-sps.  The motifs are joined at all these ch-sps.

First Motif Final Round: join yarn into any st (for Circle 7 it is best to join into a dtr), 1ch (does not count as st), *1dc, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr, 2ch, miss 1 st, (1dtr, 3ch, 1dtr, 2ch) in next st, miss 1 st, 1tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 sts; rep from * to end of round, ss to 1st dc to join, break yarn and fasten off.

Start by joining the first row of motifs along the top of your blanket.

As with many join as you go methods, for each ss join insert the hook from the right side (front) through to the wrong side (back) of the motif you are joining to.

Complete your first motif with the final joining round. Then work the final round of the second motif, joining on one side of the first at 8 points as follows:

Final Round: join yarn colour into any st, 1ch (does not count as st), *1dc, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr, 2ch, miss 1 st, (1dtr, 3ch, 1dtr, 2ch) in next st, miss 1 st, 1tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 sts; rep from * once, 1dc, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr, 2ch, miss 1 st, (1dtr, 1ch, ss into 3ch-sp on first motif, 1ch, 1dtr) in next st, 1ch, ss to next 2ch-sp on first motif, miss 1 st, 1tr, 1ch, ss in next 2ch-sp on first motif, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 1ch, ss in next 2ch-sp on first motif, miss 2 sts, 1dc, ss in next 2ch-sp on first motif, 1ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, ss in next 2ch-sp on first motif, 1ch, miss 2 sts, 1tr, ss in next 2ch-sp on first motif, 1ch, miss 1 st, (1dtr, 1ch, ss in 3ch-sp on first motif, 1ch, 1dtr, 2ch) in next st, miss 1 st, 1tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 1htr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, ss to 1st dc to join, break yarn and fasten off.

Continue in this way, joining the motifs across rows and then adding new rows on the bottom.   For motifs from the second row onwards most will have to be joined along 2 sides, just follow the same techniques as you join.  When joining into previously joined corners I prefer to place the ss into the space between the motifs that are already joined and over the previous ss join to secure it.

Don’t forget there is a paid for pattern on Ravelry which is also being released in parts and has a US crochet terms available too. It also includes some charts for the joining round.

I would love to see photos of your little circles, please share them on Facebook and Ravelry. Next week is the border.

Until then, happy crocheting xxx

All patterns and photographs are copyright

Round Again CAL – Part 4

How did you like the ruffles last week? They are surprisingly easy to make and add some lovely texture. This week for our last circles we are adding a little lace, but I love the ruffles so much that I decided I should combine them into other circles as well!

The pattern here is written in UK crochet terms and these are the abbreviations used

st(s) stitch(es)

ch ch

dc double crochet

tr treble

htr half treble

dtr double treble

ss slip stitch

ch-sp chain space

PART 4

Circles 7 and 8 are lacy, again useful for single colour yarns.  They use roughly the same amount of yarn as Circle 1.

Circle 7 – lace

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in ring, 4ch) 7 times, 1dc, 2ch, 1htr in 1st dc to join (the 2ch, 1htr forms the last 4ch-sp).   [8dc, 8 4ch-sps]

Round 2:  1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in 4ch-sp at base of ch, 2ch, (1dc in next 4ch-sp, 2ch) 7 times, ss in 1st dc to join.  [8dc, 8 2ch-sps]

Round 3: ss in 1st 2ch-sp, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 3tr in same 2ch-sp, 4tr in each remaining 2ch-sp around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 4:  1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in sp before 1st tr, 5ch, (1dc in next sp between 2 groups of 4tr, 5ch) 6 times, 1dc in next sp between groups of 4tr, 2ch, 1tr in 1st dc to join (the 2ch, 1tr forms the last 5ch-sp).  [8dc, 8 5ch-sps]

Round 5:  1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in 5ch-sp at base of ch, 5ch, (1dc in next 5ch-sp, 5ch) 7 times, ss in 1st dc to join.  [8dc, 8 5ch-sps]

Round 6: 4ch (counts as 1dtr), 7tr in next 5ch-sp, *1dtr in next dc, 7tr in next 5ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, ss in 4th ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off. [56tr, 8dtr]

I made 14 of Circle 7 for my blanket.

Circle 8 – just a little lace

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in ring, 4ch) 7 times, 1dc, 2ch, 1htr in 1st dc to join (the 2ch, 1htr forms the last 4ch-sp).  [8dc, 8 4ch-sps]

Round 2: 1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in 4ch-sp at base of ch, 2ch, (1dc in next 4ch-sp, 2ch) 7 times, ss in 1st dc to join.  [8dc, 8 2ch-sps]

Round 3: ss in 1st 2ch-sp, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 3tr in same 2ch-sp, 4tr in each remaining 2ch-sp around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join. [32tr]

Round 4: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in next st, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join. [48tr]

Round 5: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 14 of Circle 8 for my blanket.

Now you have completed 8 different circles you could try combining elements from each circle to give more variation.  For example, the following circle is a combination of Circle 7 and Circle 4. 

Circle 9 – a little lace with a small ruffle

As shown in the motif at the bottom of the photo below.

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in ring, 4ch) 7times, 1dc, 2ch, 1htr in 1st dc to join (the 2ch, 1htr forms the last 4ch-sp).  [8dc, 8 4ch-sps]

Round 2: 1ch (does not count as st), (1dc in 4ch-sp at base of ch, 2ch, (1dc in next 4ch-sp, 2ch) 7 times, ss in 1st dc to join.  [8dc, 8 2ch-sps]

Round 3: ss in 1st 2ch-sp, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 3tr in same 2ch-sp, 4tr in each remaining 2ch-sp around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 4: 5ch (counts as 1dc, 4ch), miss 1 st, *1dc in next st, 4ch, miss 1 st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 1st ch from start to join. [16dc, 16 4ch-sps]

Round 5: work this round behind the 4ch-sps from Round 3, 1ch does not count as st, ss in 1st missed st in Round 2, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in each following missed st, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 6: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 9 different combined circles for my blanket.

Don’t forget there is a paid for pattern on Ravelry which is also being released in parts and has US crochet terms available too.

I would love to see photos of your little circles, please share them on Facebook and Ravelry. Next week it is joining!

Until then, happy crocheting xxx

All patterns and photographs are copyright

Round Again CAL – Part 3

How are you getting on with Part 2? I know some of you are still on Part 1 and I have seen even more lovely circles this week. It doesn’t matter what speed you work at, just enjoy the CAL.

So this is Part 3 and I know I shouldn’t have any favourites but these are definitely my favourite variations. They involve what I call ruffles and there are 3 different ruffle variations. They are very effective for single colour yarns.  They all use more yarn than Circle 1, the small and large ruffle used about 3.5g/14m and the double ruffle used about 3.8g/15.25m.

The patterns here are written in UK crochet terms and these are the abbreviations used

st(s) stitch(es)

ch ch

dc double crochet

tr treble

ss slip stitch

ch-sp(s) chain space(s)

Circle 4 – small ruffle

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 15tr in ring, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [16tr]

Round 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 3: 5ch (counts as 1dc, 4ch), miss 1 st, *1dc in next st, 4ch, miss 1 st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 1st ch from start to join. [16dc, 16 4ch-sps]

Round 4: work this round behind the 4ch-sps from Round 3, 1ch (does not count as st), ss in 1st missed st in Round 2, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in each following missed st, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 5: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 16 of Circle 4 for my blanket.

Circle 5 – large ruffle

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 15tr in ring, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [16tr]

Round 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 3: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in next st, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 4: 6ch (counts as 1dc, 5ch), miss 2 sts, *1dc in next st, 5ch, miss 2 sts; rep from * to end of round, ss in 1st ch from start to join.  [16dc, 16 5ch-sps]

Round 5: work this round behind the 5ch-sps from Round 4, 1ch (does not count as st), ss in 1st missed st in Round 3, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each missed st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 18 of Circle 5 for my blanket.

Circle 6 – double ruffle

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 15tr in ring, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [16tr]

Round 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 3: 5ch (counts as 1dc, 4ch), miss 1 st, *1dc in next st, 4ch, miss 1 st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 1st ch from start to join. [16dc, 16 4ch-sps]

Round 4: work this round behind the 4ch-sps from Round 3, 1ch (does not count as st), ss in 1st missed st in Round 2, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in st at base of ch, 3tr in each following missed st, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 5: 6ch (counts as 1dc, 5ch), miss 2 sts, *1dc in next st, 5ch, miss 2 sts; rep from * to end of round, ss in 1st ch from start to join.  [16dc, 16 5ch-sps]

Round 6: work this round behind the 5ch-sps from Round 5, 1ch (does not count as st), ss in 1st missed st in Round 4, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each missed st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 16 of Circle 6 for my blanket.

Don’t forget there is a paid for pattern on Ravelry which is also being released in parts and has a US crochet terms available too.

I would love to see photos of your little circles, please share them on Facebook and Ravelry.

Until then, happy crocheting xxx

All patterns and photographs are copyright

Round Again CAL – Part 2

I hope you have made lots of little circles from Part 1. I’ve been blown away by the many lovely circles I’ve seen! This week we make a simple variation of the first circle in Circles 2 and 3 which use slightly less yarn, great if you have a few scraps that weren’t quite enough for Circle 1. 

Keep those scales out as it really is useful to weigh them as you make them. I found each used just a little less than 3g/12m. And keep that ruler/tape handy as I know many of you have found variations in size and needed to adjust.

These are a selection of Circles 2 and 3, they have ‘spokes’ in them so that’s why I chose their names.

The patterns are written in UK crochet terms and use the same stitches as last week, with just one addition: ch-sp which means chain space. The other abbreviations can be found in that post. Don’t forget there is a paid for pattern on Ravelry which is also being released in parts and has a US crochet terms available too.

Circle 2 – centre spoke

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch), (1tr in ring, 1ch) 7 times, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [8tr, 8 1ch-sps]

Round 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st and in each 1ch-sp around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 3: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in next st, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 4: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

Circle 3 – mid spoke

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 15tr in ring, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [16tr]

Round 2: 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch), (1tr, 1ch) in each st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [16tr, 16 1ch-sps]

Round 3: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in next 1ch-sp, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next 1ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 4: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 24 each of Circles 2 and 3 for my blanket.

I would love to see photos of your little circles, please share them on Facebook and Ravelry.

Next week the circle has a bit more texture.

Until then, happy crocheting xxx

The patterns and photographs in this post are copyright

Round Again CAL – Part 1

I hope you are all ready for Part 1 of the Round Again Blanket CAL. This is the first of 6 parts of the CAL and introduces the simple circle. This is not at all difficult provided you know how to work in the round and count stitches. There are only 4 rounds and I made quite a few of these, however they are very quick to make. They will help you to see how some of your variegated scrap sock yarns look in the round and I recommend you make one of these circles for each of your different scrap yarns. Don’t forget there is a paid for pattern on Ravelry which is also being released in parts and has a US crochet terms available too.

When you have made a few circles in different yarns, measure each of them.   They should all be roughly the same size at around 9cm across.  If you are using sock yarn of different wool blends or meterage you may find that the motifs vary a little in size; provided this variation isn’t too great then it won’t really matter.  But some may vary significantly so you may need to adjust. I found small variations, mainly only a mm or so, but a few were a bit too big.  I adjusted these by reducing the height changing the stitches on the final round, for example I used half treble (US half double crochet) rather than treble (US double crochet) on the final round; this was much quicker than frogging the whole circle and trying a smaller hook!

If you find the odd one is a bit small you may find working larger stitches on the final round will adjust sufficiently.

You may also wish to weigh them.  Knowing how much yarn is used for each motif may help you decide which to make with your remaining yarn. I found each Circle 1 used about 3g/12m of sock yarn.

The pattern here is written in UK crochet terms and these are the abbreviations used

ch chain

tr treble

ss slip stitch

Circle 1 in sparkly yarn

Pattern

Foundation: 4ch, join into a ring with a ss.

Round 1:  3ch (counts as 1tr), 15tr in ring, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [16tr]

Round 2:  3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in each st around, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [32tr]

Round 3: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in next st, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join.  [48tr]

Round 4: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, *1tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st; rep from * to end of round, ss in 3rd ch from start to join, break yarn and fasten off.  [64tr]

I made 52 of these for my blanket.

I would love to see photos of your little circles, please share them on Facebook and Ravelry.

A selection of my 52 circles

Next week in Part 2 I will be giving some very simple variations to Circle 1.

Until then, happy crocheting xxx

All photos and patterns are copyright.

It has a name!

My 2022 blanket for the CAL has a name – it is called Round Again Blanket. Round because it is made of circles and Again because I’m using scrap yarn so I’m using the yarn again!

In my last post I shared photos of all my little circles and promised I would give you details of start and timescale soon. Well soon is now! Testing is finished and I’m feeling very happy about the CAL.

I’ve had some lovely feedback from the testers including:

  • addictive
  • easy to crochet
  • fly off the hook
  • look great in variegated yarn

These are things I was aiming for and it looks like I have achieved them. So, after being so far behind in the preparation a few weeks ago, I am ready to share the details with you.

The CAL will be released in 6 parts

  1. Basic circle
  2. Variations 1 and 2
  3. Variations 3, 4 and 5
  4. Variations 6 and 7
  5. Squaring off and joining the circle motifs
  6. The border

Size, yarn and hook

The blanket I made is about 110cm by 160cm.  I used approx. 650g/2600m of scrap sock yarn and 200g/800m of a mid grey sock yarn for joining and some of the border.  These figures are approx. because I used scraps of different types and ever so slightly different meterage. I made 187 motifs in total. As I used sock yarn I used a 3mm hook. But of course you could use any yarn you like as long as you use a suitable hook size. And you can make it any size you like.

Stitches

The stitches used are all the normal sts – in UK terms these are ch, dc, htr, tr, dtr, ss and some sts worked together, nothing fancy at all. Everything is worked in the round, so you need to know how to do this, but otherwise I think a beginner could cope.

The pattern

The motifs will be published here on my blog in UK crochet terms and a comprehensive paid for pattern will be available on Ravelry in both UK and US terms.

When

Part 1 (the basic circle) will be published here on Saturday 19th February, and each further part follows every Saturday with the final part (the border) on 26th March. The Ravelry pattern will be updated on the same days.

Just before I blocked my blanket I took a few photos including several of the back of the blanket because I think it looks just as lovely on the back, making it reversible. The back doesn’t show some of the detail of the motifs but it does show the lovely colours and it’s amazing how beautiful scraps of sock yarn can be together. It also makes a good sneak preview photo!

If you join the CAL it would be lovely if you share progress on Facebook or Ravelry.

Until next week, happy crocheting xxx